Vilcabamba. Our last home in Ecuador....

Actually, now in Peru, we're already over a week or so past what I started drafting in Vilcabamba, our last stay in Ecuador. Such is Blogging and Journaling......

...... It's late at 1:30AM and I can't sleep, but this is a good opportunity to write about our most recent, and last, home in Ecuador.

We're days away from leaving Ecuador for Peru, and with some research and reading I'm really excited for the upcoming taste of a totally new and different culture and society. I'm anticipating some good cuisine in contrast to Ecuador (I apologize to our Ecuadoriano friends), some new faces of the Andean peoples, a lot of ancient history: pre and post-colonial and pre-Incan, and some incredible wilderness with, finally, a chance to backpack and camp.

But, first, we're leaving Vilcabamba, a very fascinating, small town in the far South of Ecuador, and our home this past 2-3 weeks..

Something here attracts a bizarre array of ex-pat Americans; the population is practically split between local Ecuadorianos and Gringos. There's a constant chatter describing energy vortexes, spiritual portents and signs, shamanism and pre-colonial history, mixed in with conspiracy theories and apocalyptic dates. All this from a persistent flow of hippies, healers, spiritualists, conspiracy theorists, white retirees, and land-grabbers.

Did I mention the uncanny presence of 100 year old local residents? ..... the one on the left, no, not Pilar

This is a lot of goings-on for a small town whose commercial district doesn't measure larger than 3 or 4 square blocks. But the Gringos flock here and come to stay. Internet research for Ecuador typically finds a number of sites promoting retirement and real-estate in Vilcabamba. We've learned less Spanish language because there's so many English speakers, and even many menus or signs are in English. Mostly real-estate signs. The land speculation and reluctance to learn Spanish by some of the more permanent ex-pats has caused a huge rift with the locals. So, it's even more important to be considerate of Ecuadorian and local customs: say Hola and Buenas to everyone you pass, don't suggest that nightly fireworks are drunken boobery and not the yearly festival ticking down to Sunday mass, etc. Sigh, ugly Americans. Xylia has actually heard someone in a flock of gringos complain out loud that he's lived here for three years and can't speak a lick of Spanish, “it might as well be Chinese. Why can't we get this menu in English!?”

Bizarrity and rude gringos aside (and it's hard to get past it all) we've been really fortunate, and rather love what we've carved for a life here. As the story goes, we arrived in Vilcabamba expecting to stay only a night on our way to our first WWOOF'ing project. We had a friend waiting for us, Bernie, who we'd met in Puerto Lopez. And Xy was dragging along a flu that I'd picked up more than a week prior back in Puerto Lopez. After our first night off the bus, we quickly visited Bernie at his mediation center, CMV, wanting to say Hola as we'd planned, before running off to the awaiting farm. But, unexpectantly, at CMV we ran into Daniel, Karis, and their 7 year old daughter Saby, who immediately invited us to stay with them in their large rented house in town. They were just moving in and leaving the Center. Again, a bounty of generosity after only 10 minutes of conversation, same as our stay in Cuenca where we'd just left. Xylia was drooping from her flu, so took them up on the offer, figuring just to stay for a few days and let Xy recuperate from her cold. But it evolved into the rest of our trip in Ecuador as we were adopted into this new family and into the strangeness of Vilcabamba.

So, from this wonderful base we've been cooking and baking bread in a kitchen, watching movies, playing cards, sharing stories and great conversation, and easily exploring the town. We've become good friends with Bernie while meditating at his center sometimes twice a day, three days a week. We'd also done a sweat lodge (now two sweats before leaving) and an all day meditation retreat at CMV. There's been a great yoga site nearby to work out the kinks and cramps from countless hours of bus rides. We even found a sauna/spa and Pilar discovered a good local masseuse. Plus hiking, temperate weather, and the ring of green mountains, and we're really at home.

There's also been plenty of opportunity for new friends: namely, Daniel, a professional musician from Argentina; a German couple moto-touring for a year in Sudamerica (their second such trip); an Argentine couple who make macrame and silver jewelry to fund their travels; and recently, Vivi, a Puerto Rican born yoga instructor who's lived for a time in the US and in Central America and is following an open ended path through Latin America while she studies.

Vilcabamba, and all that we've found here, has settled well into our hearts. Our family is continually offered open generosity, while our travels cultivate compassion and understanding.

Shout out to: serephina (karis) and saby, xyra and matt and fion, ian and delphine, bernie and angelina, carlitos and eddie, daniel, vivi, amy, romena and christian, deiki, elizabeth, frank n petra, mia, dennis, piedad, stacy and caroline

http://www.flickr.com/photos/66257025@N02/sets/72157627855034358/

-michael

thanks for cuenca teddy, matt y dianne!

Still amazed by the incredible gesture of generosity of a family we met over breakfast and a conversation of schooling kids while on the road, we floated into Cuenca after sunset. Arriving at the apartment of Matt and Dianne where we will stay for a night or 2 with their nephew Teddy. Teddy is awesome, and obviously an extension of his family....generous, warm and welcoming. Turns out, he is taking a semester off to live abroad from University of Montana, where my brother Tyler just started his masters program.....small world! Recognizing that we are hungry and stagnant from the 8 hour bus ride, we all walk into the old town for some dinner.
  I like Cuenca already, the blend of the old colonial buildings and the new, the rios that run through town, the yellow street lamps and even the nutty traffic circles. Dinner is easy in a great little spot with music that feels like home, cheap drinks and tasty food. We stay late, talking, sharing and laughing. I can see how this family chose Cuenca as a place to live for a while, it's foreign enough, gentrified and welcoming.
Their apartment is across the street from the futball stadium...and as luck would have us, there's a big game tomorrow, Cuenca vs. Quito!

 Not only do we get to sleep in a comfortable bed, have a hot shower....but there is a kitchen and we get to cook! Gratefully we start the morning out with eggs and dreams of homemade pizza for later. But first the game!! Unfortunately we forgot the camera....so you'll just have to imagine a lively game of futball in Ecuador, their national sport. And it truly was a great game...Cuenca won 2-1 against Quito, the best team and with a long standing rivalry. So imagine anthem songs sung by young and old, curse words in spanish, mani(peanuts) and cervesa!  
The next day everyone was felt like staying in, Xylia sounds like she is coming down with something, and it was just rainy enough to feel right...except for me, I was itching to explore the city and practicar mi espanol. I wandered around Parque Calderon and throughout the tight colonial cobbled streets. Coming off the startling news of the recent death of a former student, I purchased a candle and entered the big cathedral. The cathedral was filled with the soothing sound of a woman reciting prayers and sermon. Walking around the perimeter I find myself standing in front of a dark statue of a woman. Her altar is low lit and she's wearing a black robe and headdress. Looking for a place to light my candle for Georgette I continue around the cathedral. Closer to the main altar is another statue of a woman, this one has a child with her, a book in hand and is dressed in a green robe with a crown, the stained glass around her is designed with red roses, doves and books. Toward the back of the cathedral was one more statue of a woman, this time she was completely carved out of white marble and left unpainted, a shock of white in comparison with the other statues. It occurs to me that I have found the triple Goddess in the cathedral in Cuenca....Maiden, Mother and Crone.

I light Georgette's candle at the Mother's altar, and leave offerings at all three before I head out again. I left the cathedral to find a flower market and small shops with religious items, I ducked into what I thought was a small shop to reorganize my pockets when I realize this is no shop. People are gathered to light candles and say prayers at what looks like an old, old painting. The light is behind me and casting an awful glare so I can't really tell, but as I look more closely around me, I wander deeper into the room. There is a line of people waiting at a wood farmed window in the wall. In the window is a wooden "lazy susan" turnstile thing that spins around. Next to the window is a sign that says "Se Vende" (we sell) and a list of kind of odd items....wine, a cream for sore muscles, water, sweets and other things my spanish won't allow. I'm in line of course, and I watch as a woman in front of me leans in as far as she can to whisper her order to someone on the other side. She puts her money on the turnstile and spins it in. A few minutes later it turns again with a small bag where her money once was. The man in front of me does the same and eventually lifts out a large crate with bottles of wine and other stuff. I chickened out and didn't order... I wasn't sure what was what, or if I was even allowed to. I kinda regret that one though.....Well, next time I'm in Cuenca.

 

Probably the best part of this day though was what I found on my way to meet, Michael, Teddy and Xylia for dinner. Standing outside the cathedral was a street performer who had to skeleton puppets that were playing music... this guy was brilliant! I sat through a few songs with the biggest smile on my face, and I could have stayed all night. Here is a picture, but really you'll have to see for yourself....so I'll work on loading the video. 

Reluctantly I left and met everyone at our favorite restaurant for our last night in Cuenca....so sad! But we had another great night, playing cards, eating, drinking and laughing.

Teddy has been an amazing host, and has now become a great friend! And Matt and Diane...we hope to actually spend some quality time time with you and your family one day. Your generosity has opened me in a new way...if ever we can return the favor, we will! Teddy we hope to see you in Portland on the other side....if not sooner! 

new friends in PL

new friends in PL, a set on Flickr.

In the week plus since we've left Pijal, I realize I haven't written much at all.We had a misadventure making our way to Peurto Lopez through Quevedo. We finally arrived in PL for about 4-5 days filled with humpback whales, boobie birds of every variety and making good friends. We first met Richard, a Dutch man who is for the second time in 6 years touring the world! We met Kevin and Diane, who own the Cafe Ballena (Whale Cafe), expats for over 30 years, and Bernie who owns a meditation center in Vilacabamba. We met a great young Argentine couple at the end of their tour of the continent. they shared their mate with us and invited us to stay with them when we make our way down there. They were with a bright eyed young Portuguese couple traveling during their school break. We spent most of our time with Kevin and Diane eating lots of their good food, and swapping stories. On our last day Kevin took us and his two nephews, Paulo and Rafael for a hike and explore the fog forest of Ayampe a few km south of PL. After we took our first over-nighter bus back to Quito and landed back at the Maple early enough to curl up on their couches waiting for our room to be available. The Maple has turned out to be a great spot to meet other interesting travelers from all over the world. This is where we met Jo on her way home to Scotland and Anja who turned out to be a great friend. This morning we met an American family with 2 small children that have been living in Cuenca for the past 10 months. They were on their way to Mindo then Puerto Lopez. Over breakfast they invited us to stay in their apartment in Cuenca with their nephew for the few nights we would be there.

Its this kind of generosity that seems to grow here. Honestly, it's at a striking contrast to our American culture I have found. I understand that there is a certain level of vunribility we are all in being forieners and therefore reaching out, looking out, and starting a conversation with a complete stranger is so common and easy here. I mean at home though, how often do you make new friends? Or when you do, how often do they drive you around to all their favorite places or invite you to stay in their home and sleep in their bed? No, this is a new kind of generosity I haven't before seen.        

ballenas dancing in the pacific

20110822(123736) a video by pequenasventanas on Flickr.

Humpback whales playing in the warm waters off the coast of Ecuador.

Puerto Lopez

Puerto Lopez, a set on Flickr.

Puerto Lopez and Isla de la Plata